"3 Step Braking"

First visualize an oval, the best way to practice and perfect it is in an oval drill. At the end of both straight-aways, we have a 180-degree turn. Leading into and around these 180-degree turns, there are 3 "zones". This is where the 3 steps take place. The whole idea in motocross, is to either be braking or accelerating, never coasting (coasting is off the throttle and no brakes applied, slow). Most riders don’t realize how much coasting goes on in turns. Also, you must know that the forces of braking (both front and rear) hold the bike down and to the inside of the turn. Rear brake drag "pivots" through the rear axle (just like in mid-air, pulling in the clutch and stabbing the rear brake, how it drops the front of the bike) and puts "pressure" on the front tire. This is what keeps the front tire from washing out. Also, front brake drag, pulls the front wheel to the inside, and helps turn the bike. As you will see, timing the release of the brakes, and moving the weight transfer to the rear wheel is one of the crucial parts.

Here’s what goes on in each zone…

ZONE 1- (Straight line braking zone, Stand-up braking zone, or Trail braking zone). The first thing at the end of the straight, is to let off the throttle (this is actually when you enter zone 1). At the same time you should stand up and move back (this is because the weight transfer of the motorcycle is moving forward in this zone), squeeze your knees into the bike, and position your foot to start rear braking. At the same time, start the 0 to 10 front braking process, and place 1 or 2 fingers over clutch lever, but DO NOT pull in the clutch. Three things slow he motorcycle down, brakes, gearing and compression, and pulling in the clutch is like being in neutral, and you will lock up the rear wheel. This will make you lose control, so try to keep the rear wheel rolling somewhat. The rear brake is the control brake; the front brake slows you down (70-75%). Also all downshifts must be made in zone 1. Squeeze your knees into the seat, this will reduce fatigue and help control the bike. You should be looking ahead to plan your line. When braking, don’t squeeze to 10 braking to early, modulate the brakes while downshifting to create "anti lock" braking. Keep your butt pretty close to the rear of the seat to get traction down and over the rear tire.

ZONE 2- (first half of corner, sit down braking zone). Once you begin to actually enter the corner, you need to transition from standing braking to sit down braking without moving off the brake pedal. This is accomplished by sitting down, and pressing your right knee into the side of your bike (radiator shroud), and creating a pivot point to keep your braking smooth and steady over rough terrain. While sitting, do not leave the brake pedal. The ball of your foot should be on the pedal, and as you sit forward, your heel will lift off the footpeg. Continue dragging the brakes all the way to the APEX (halfway through the turn). All the other cornering techniques are going on simultaneously, i.e.: inside leg out, forward on the seat, outside elbow higher than the end of the grip, shoulders square to the turn, upper body centered, and looking ahead toward the exit. Remember, be patient, the braking is holding your bike in the turn, this allows fast controlled entrance speed.

ZONE 3- (acceleration zone). At the apex of the turn, the thing to watch for is, once you release the brakes, there is the critical point that you can wash out, so you must be ready to throttle the moment you release the brakes, or slightly before (overlap the brakes and throttle a bit). The weight transfer of the bike will move to the rear, so you must "row" forward, head out over the bars, and lead with your nose. If you time things correctly, you will release the brakes close to the apex, and accelerate from there as well. If you brake to early, and get on the gas in zone 2, your bike will move in the direction your bikes front fender is pointing, which is to the outside of the turn, which is wrong. Done correctly, by being patient and waiting till zone 3, your bikes fender is pointing up the track, and away you go! Remember, you are controlling and redirecting the forces of energy.

A couple of things to remember, 20 consistent smooth turns are faster and more efficient than a couple of really fast turns, and then a big mistake. Part of gaining time is not losing time! When practicing the oval drill, see how hard it is to do 20 perfect laps, let alone one. Also the first half of the corner should be faster than the exit half, because you have the straight away entry speed coming in, you just have to learn to control it. When doing the drill, set up your cones so you can be in about 2^nd, 3^rd and 4^th gears, and leave a runout area at both ends. This way you can charge the turns, and if you overshoot a bit, no problem. This will get you used to "rushing" the corner, and before long, you will enter at that speed and make the turn.

Now go out there and get it done, these tips aren’t doing you any good just by reading them!!!